Landour - The Misty Himalayan Abode

Landour- The curly way to Landour

Landour:

To be honest we discovered Landour by chance and I can say with conviction that Landour is one of the most memorable places we have ever visited in India.

We were on our trip to Haridwar, Dehradun and Mussoorie and this time the theme of the trip was "Shoe String Budget for Travel". It is customary with us to keep themes for various trips; this makes the trip more memorable and different from normal visits to a place. Adhering to the theme for the trip meant a lot of travel on foot.

I grew up and did my schooling from Dehradun. During my numerous visits to Mussoorie I had crossed the Picture Palace End Chowk, also called the Kulri Chowk, many times but I had never explored the path to Landour. I did not even know that there is a place called Landour. Although in back of mind somehow I always knew that the path on the left from the Kulri Chowk will take me to an unexplored gem of the mountains. I was determined to explore it someday.

As we walked across the "Mall Road" in Mussoorie from Library End to the Picture Palace End, we reached the same path ahead on the left. On inquiring with the locals, we came to know that this way would take us to Landour. This time I had made up my mind to explore the path and Landour.

My suggestion to tourists and visitors planning of visiting Landour is " If you are very much tuned to the habit of visiting a lot many places and completely filling your entire day with one or the other activity, then Landour is not the place for you, come to Landour to "Do Nothing". Come here to take a break from your monotonous city life, to fill up your lungs with fresh air, enjoy the mist of the mountains and submerge yourself in peace and tranquility. As the placard on one of the trees in the woods read "If we liked Noise we wouldn't live here, if you like Noise you shouldn't be here".

Landour

Landour Uttarakhand / Mussoorie Landour :

Landour is a small cantonment town which is around 35 Kms from Dehradun - the state capital of Uttarakhand State (India). Landour is well connected via road from Dehradun. Buses and Taxis ply quite frequently between Dehradun and Mussoorie. Nearest railway Station is at Dehradun and nearest Airport is Jolly Grant Airport (Dehradun).
The twin cities Mussoorie and Landour are well known British Era hill stations, also popularly known as the "Queen of the Hills". Landour get's its name from "Llanddowror" a village in southwest Wales.

The British Indian Army built Landour. Mullingar, the oldest house in Landour was built by Captain Young (the discoverer of Mussoorie) in 1825-26. The town became a convalescent center when a sanatorium was opened for the military in Landour in 1827. The original sanatorium is now occupied by DRDO.

In the early twentieth century a full British Military Hospital, specializing in tropical diseases, was opened which was closed soon after 1947.
Landour was also the furlough home to the British and Irish soldiers who did not have the means to visit their native place regularly.

Landour is home to the famous author Ruskin Bond. One would find mention of places in Landour in his writings. Other well known personalities having homes in Landour include Tom Alter, Victor Banerjee, Prannoy Roy, Vishal Bharadwaj etc.

The quaint little town is looped in the figure of "eight". You can walk the length and breadth - the lower and upper chakkers as the locals' call- in an hour or two.

Landour Weather:

Landour's weather is pleasant during summers (April-May) and may touch around 30'c. During winters (December-February) it snows, sometimes heavily. It snows twice as much as in Landour than in Mussoorie. During monsoon it rains almost daily. The rainy season stretches' from May to September as one may witness pre and post monsoon showers. 

Landour

Landour Hotels / Hotels in Landour:

Landour has plethora of Hotels and home stays. Listed below are few hotels/homestays in Landour:

Rokeby Manor:

Rokeby Manor is a colononial style heritage hotel. Originally built in 1840, Rokeby manor is a popular Landmark of Landour. Rokeby Manor has the old world charm bestowed by stone walled cottages, wooden floors and cozy fireplaces. Rokeby Manor management also manages a restaurant "Emily's" and the only pub in the town "The Stray Dog - Ale House".

La Villa Bethany:

La Villa Bethany is an Old English Cottage run as a Bed & Breakfast. The Homestay has painstakingly restored rooms, gardens and common areas. The accommodation recreates the Colonial Era charm and gives tribute to the founders of Mussoorie and Landour by naming cabins, study, rooms etc by their name.

Doma's Inn:

Doma's Inn houses a Lovely Café and has rooms to stay. Brightly decorated with Tibetan Motifs one can see colors all over. The century old Ivy Cottage was refurbished into Doma's Inn which has a Café and rooms to stay This property is pet friendly and is at a stone throw distance from Char Dukan.

Ivy Bank Guest House:

Ivy Bank guest house is a stunning budget property near to the market and Landour Bakehouse. They have a pretty garden. The staff is friendly.

Tabor Cottage:

Tabor Cottage is age old stone house built is the 1850's which has been given a retro look. One can have a panoramic view of the Doon Valley and the Majestic mountains from the property.

Landour Food Trail:

Landour is a foodie's delight. One would find Cafes and Restaurants that serve multi cuisine, delicious finger-licking food. . Below is an attempt to cover the food trail of Landour and give a glimpse of some of the famous Cafes and Restaurants of Landour.

Char Dukan:

Char Dukan in Hindi means four shops. This place now has around six shops and its said after the St Paul's Church was consecrated in 1840, a small market of four shops came up in the vicinity of the Church to cater to the needs of the locals and the foreigners who enrolled in the Landour Language School, hence the the place was known as Char Dukan. Char Dukan is the most visited palace in Landour always buzzing with tourists and locals alike. You can even find mention of Char Dukan in the writings of Ruskin Bond.
Anil's Cafe and Tip Top Tea Shop are the two shops who have been serving snacks and drinks for the last 50 Years. They have alike visited by their loyal clientage and visitors flocking Landour.
Anil's Cafe is known for it's Bun Omelets, Ginger Lemon Honey Tea, Pancakes, Butter Fried Maggi etc. While Tip Top Tea Shop is famous for it's Bun Omelets, Ginger Lemon Honey Tea, Waffles, Vegetable Maggi etc. The food is excellent hence it is no doubt that the place has been visited by celebrities like Sachin Tendulkar, Tom Alter etc. Both the shops are equally good perhaps your taste buds standout as the only winner.

Café Ivy:

Café Ivy - Landour

Café Ivy is a modern Café given a rustic look. It has been the talk of the town for some time now for it's delicious food and the scintillating views of the mountain & the valley which one can enjoy while seated indoor or in it's open balcony.
It is said that it was originally build on a parking lot by three local lads, who grew up in Landour, went their ways for higher studies & work and then reunited & came back to Landour to open this eatery. Today the Café serves Continental, Italian, American and Indian Food.
The Café entrance has bricks walls, a wooden billboard and a Big Copper Kettle. The rustic white Brick walls, Wooden chairs, Edison Bulbs, Cobbled floors gives it a vintage look and transports you to the bygone era. The Café also has a fireplace and a small library for visitors who like to sit back and read over finger licking food.

Cafe Ivy - Landour

A. Prakash & Co.:

A Prakash & Co. is best known for their Jams, Peanut Butter and Cheeses. It is a must visit place in the Sister's Bazaar area. Anil Prakash,the owner of the store continues to carry forward the legacy set by his father Inder Parkash. His Clientage include the Likes of Ruskin Bond, Jawaharlal Nehru and his clan etc.
Anil's store was opened by his grandfather Shobharam in  1920's, his father took charge in 1940's. To meet the shortage of foreign provisions, after the British left, Inder Prakash, Anil's Father, learned the skill of Cheese and Jam making. He also acquired equipment and recipe of Peanut butter from the departing Seventh Day Adventist Mission.
Inder started selling Jams, Peanut Butter and Cheeses etc, Anil joined the trade in 1980's and since then expanded the business many fold.

Landour Bakehouse:

Landour Bakehouse is another iconic bakery in Landour. It is another must visit place in the Sister's Bazaar area. The Charming Bake house is only a few years old, but it has made it's mark among the locals and visitors alike. The interiors reminds you of the old hill cabins of the bygone era. The place has been painstakingly restored to give it a 19th century bake house look, where baked products were prepared.
To give the little backdrop of the place a board at the entrance reads " When Queen Victoria ascended the throne in 1897, most of her people lived in  the countryside and every parish had a communal oven or a Bakehouse. Landour is no different and from the early 1900s all the eclectic residents would meet at the Community Center book clubs as well as other social gatherings on the hillside..."
The tiny blackboard read "We Do Not Have Wi-Fi... Talk To Each Other. Pretend it's 1895..."

The Menu includes the classics from the "Landour Cookbook". The "Landour Cookbook" was a compilation of recipes and secrets of cooking in the hilly regions in the era when there were no refrigerators. The book was compiled by the culinary enthusiasts who wanted to share their recipes with other residents. These food items were often known by the names of the people contributing its recipe. The same age old tradition is bestowed in the Menu of Landour Bakehouse where you find various food items prefixed with people/family names.
You can enjoy here some finger licking bakery products including cinnamon rolls, cakes, cookies, pies, deserts ,puddings etc with ginger tea or tasty French press. You can also carry home some of their stick jaws.

Doma's Inn:

This little Café transports you to Tibet. Doma's Inn houses a Lovely Café and has rooms to stay. Brightly decorated with Tibetan Motifs one can see colors all over. The century old Ivy Cottage was refurbished into Doma's Inn which has a Café and rooms to stay. They serve authentic Tibetan, Chinese and Asian Cuisines.

Doma's Inn - Landour

Clock Tower Café:

The Clock Tower Café is located near to the Landour Clock Tower. The Clock Tower Cafe's serves great food. Their Menu offers a great range of food items. You can enjoy Chinese and Italian Cuisines. The Café has a red brick exterior. The interiors of the Café is decorated with posters of famous films, photographs of famous personalities, hanging cloth lampshades etc. Being centrally located the Café is always crowded by loyal locals and tourists alike. 

Little Llama's Café:

A relatively new Café, Little Llama's Café is a dream child of a young couple (Tenzin and Lynette Lama). The Café is popular both among locals and the tourists. The Café serves delicious, mouth-watering Italian, Continental and Asian food. The menu can be found written on the black-board at the entrance. The terrace of the Café offers panoramic view of the valley. 

Emily's Rokeby Manor:

The restaurant is named after Emily Eden and is part of the Rokeby Manor. Bricked interiors, wooden floors & furniture is the cynosure of the guests. They serve Indian and Continental Cuisines. Sipping your Tea you can enjoy a stroll in the Tea garden next to the restaurant. Being on the first floor of Rokeby Manor you can enjoy stunning view while you enjoy your food.

The Mudcup Café:

The Mudcup Café is a aesthetically designed Café, just a few meters from the end of Landour Bazaar. open in 2015 by two expats it is a perfect place to hang out, relish the savories and enjoy the board games, cards, books etc that go along with your order. You can enjoy your time seated near the windows or on the terrace or on the low rise tables and floor cushions.

The Mudcup Cafe - Landour

The Mudcup Cafe - Landour

Places to visit in Landour:

Some of the most visited places in Landour are listed as under:

St Paul's Church:

This Anglican church is just next to Char Dukan. It was built in 1939 and consecrated in 1840.It was primarily used by the British troops based at the convalescent center at Landour. Jim Corbett's parents Christopher and Mary Corbett were married in this Church in 1859. It's Indo-gothic architecture reminds you of the by gone era.

St Paul's Church - Landour

Kellogg's Church:

Kellogg's Church was built in 1903. With its stained glass impressive windows it showcases splendid gothic architecture. Its named after Rev. Dr. Samuel H. Kellogg's who ran the Landour Language School here, where the British were taught Hindi. The Landour Language School situated here is still operational.

St Peter's Catholic Church:

St Peter's Church is the oldest church in the region. It was opened in 1828. It was lying in ruins after independence and was restored and reopened on 15th August 2007. It is situated on the highest hill of the region.

Mullingar:

Mullingar, the oldest house in Landour was built by Captain Young (the discoverer of Mussoorie) in 1825-26. Mullingar was named after Captain Young's native town in Ireland. Mullingar became a hotel and was also leased by the army during World War II to house the overflowing convalescing soldiers in the Landour Sanatorium. One would get panoramic view of the region from the Mullingar hill. In this region one would now witness a Holy Tibetan Stupa with prayer flags fluttering in wind.

Panoramic View from Mullingar Hill - Landour

Sister's Bazaar:

Landour had the sanatorium built for British soldiers. The nurses working in the sanatorium had their barracks near the present day Sister's Bazaar. These nurses used to visit the place quite often, hence the place was named Sister's Bazaar. Sister's Bazaar area has the famous "A Prakash & Co." and the famous "Landour Bake House". A Prakash & Co. is best known for their Jams, Peanut Butter and Cheeses. Landour Bakehouse is an iconic bakery in Landour. You would find few other shops here selling souvenirs, postcards, handicrafts, organic cosmetics, handmade shawls, tea, omelets etc.

Landour Bazaar:

Landour Bazaar is market having shops on both sides of a serpentine uphill path. The Bazaar has age old shops selling Handicrafts, Antiques, Old books & photographs, lanterns, chandeliers & other curios, handmade shoes, sandals & chappals, tea, snacks, sweets, groceries and other general purpose daily use items. You will notice withered away houses standing strong for decades or may be more. The view certainly gives you a glimpse of the bygone Era.

Landour Bazaar

Jabarkhet Nature Reserve:

Jabarkhet is a private nature reserve. It among the few privately owned Nature Reserve's in India. It is around 15 min drive from Landour. The Reserve is an attempt to preserve, conserve and revive the local flora and fauna. It has a mix of Rhododendron, Oak, and Pine forests. Over 100 varieties of birds, 300 varieties of flowers and 60 species of Mushrooms are found here. It has eight walking/hiking trails be it "The Rhododendron", "The Mushroom", " The Ridge", The Wildflower" or " The Leopard" trail. Each trail is named after the flora, fauna or the terrain found on the trail. The trails can be chosen based on the season and time available to explore the trails. The trek difficulty is easy to moderate and each trail takes around 3-4 hours to complete. You get beautiful panoramic view of the Shivalik Ranges from the Top of the Reserve.

Rhododendron - Landour

Lal Tibba:

Lal Tibba is one of the highest points in the Mussoorie- Landour region. It is a red colored building providing the best vantage point in the region. In Local Language Lal means red and Tibba means peak or high point, hence the name is apt for the place. The topmost floor has a telescope via which you can watch the sacred Himalayan peaks like Kedarnath, Badrinath, Bandarpunch etc. The telescope was installed by the municipality way back in 1967.It also offers a spectacular panoramic view of the valley. Lal Tibba also has Doordarshan and All India Radio repeater station. The road to Lal Tibba is also very picturesque as it is surrounded by Rhododendron, Pine and Coniferous Trees.

Mountain Range View from Lal Tibba - Landour

Winter Line Mussoorie / Landour :

Winter line is a unique phenomenon only observed in Mussoorie/Landour and Switzerland (the Swiss Alps). Winter Line is a term used for a false horizon ( a golden sharp line) formed at dusk. It is best observed between October and February when the sky is clear. It is believed to be be formed due to refraction of light by a layer formed of dust, moisture & smog rising from the plains and the cooler mountain air. The sight is just spectacular.
The 5 day long Winter Line Carnival hosted at Mussoorie/Landour is a music & dance festival named after this phenomenon.

Best Time to Visit Landour :

Landour is quite and serene through out the year. If you want to escape from the scorching heat you can come over in summers (April-June). If you love snow come over in winters (October - February), and if you love to see plush greenery and blooming flowers come over to Landour in the Monsoons (July-September). Tourists most often visit during summers.

How to Reach Landour from Delhi :

Road Route: Delhi- Meerut-Roorkee-Dehradun-Mussoorie-Landour.
There are frequent busses from Delhi to Dehradun. Busses and Taxis ply frequently between Dehradun and Mussoorie. After Mussoorie one can walk or take a Taxi to Landour.

Train Route: Delhi- Dehradun  and then by Road Route to Landour.

Flight Route: Delhi- Dehradun (Jolly Grant Airport) and then by Road Route to Landour.

Distances :

Delhi to Landour : 290 km
Delhi To Meerut: 83 km
Meerut To Roorkee:109 km

Roorkee to Dehradun: 70 km
Dehradun to Mussoorie: 34 km
Mussoorie to Landour: 5-7 km

Other important Information about Landour :

Landour Height from Sea Level : Landour is around 300M above Mussoorie. Height of Mussoorie ranges from 2250 to 2377m.

Clothings for Landour : Cotton clothes during Summers, Light woolen with heavy rain protection during Monsoons and Heavy Woolens During Winters.

Schools in Landour : Landour is also famous for its British Era Schools, which includes the famous Woodstock School.

Fooding /Lodging/Hotels on Landour route : Meals and Hotels available at Meerut, Roorkee, Dehradun, Mussoorie etc.

Petrol Pumps on Landour route: Meerut, Roorkee, Dehradun, Mussoorie etc.

Last Petrol Pump on Landour route: Mussoorie/Landour.

ATMs on Landour route available at: Meerut, Roorkee, Dehradun, Mussoorie etc.

Last ATM on Landour route available at: Mussoorie/Landour.

Bike Repair Mechanics on Landour route available at : Meerut, Roorkee, Dehradun, Mussoorie etc

Car Repair Mechanics on Landour route available at: Meerut, Roorkee, Dehradun, Mussoorie etc.

Phone Network Connectivity: Phone Network is available in Landour.

Medical Care: Hospitals available at Meerut, Roorkee, Dehradun, Mussoorie etc.

Any Special Permission Needed by Indian Citizen to Visit Landour: No.

Places to Visit near Landour:  Dehradun,  Mussoorie, Nag Tibba, etc.

+ Disclaimer: Information provided above is based on self experience and collected from various other sources.

Landour