Mandawa - Town of Havelis and Frescoes

Mandawa - Composite Fresco on Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka Haveli

Mandawa:-

Mandawa is a small town in the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan (India). It is part of District Jhunjhunu. Shekhawati region is the greener part of Rajasthan which served as the gardens of Rao Shekha Ji. This region got its name from Rao Shekha Ji, Shekhawati literally meaning the gardens of the Shekha. His sons later established various cities in this region.

Mandawa is around 260 km from Delhi and around 190 km from Jaipur. Mandawa is famous for its opulent Havellis and the Frescoes. Mandawa has become the chosen destination for shooting scenes in various "Bollywood" movies. You can also explore local handicrafts including miniature paintings and other handmade items. 

History of Mandawa:-

Historic references suggest that the City of Mandawa was established in around 1740 AD by Mandu Jat. He established a Dhani (hamlet) and dug a well here. This place was initially known as ‘Mandu ki dhani’, ‘Mandu ka bas’ or ‘Manduwas’ which changed to ‘Manduwa’, ‘Mandwa’ and finally ‘Mandawa’.

Mandawa was made a thikana (meaning a Thakur’s estate) in middle of 18^th century. Later on Mandawa went on to become a trading outpost for the ancient caravan routes that stopped here from China and the Middle East. Back in those days, Mandawa was an important stoppage for traders and merchants who exchanged good via the silk route.

The Rajput ruler of Nawalgarh and Mandawa, Thakur Nawal Singh built a fort in 1755 to protect this outpost. Gradually the township that grew around fort was inhabited by traders and wealthy merchants. These settlers built magnificent havelis and baolis. Later the merchants migrated to other developed regions leaving behind the Havelis that still adorn the landscape of Mandawa. These havelis which have frescoes painted on the walls and ceilings have given Mandawa the adjective of “Open Air Art Gallery”.

Slowly Mandawa has become a must visit place for tourists both from India and other countries. Mandawa has also become a sought after destination for Bollywood Filmmakers, many Films including PK, Bajrangi Bhaijaan, Half Girlfriend etc have been shot here. 

History of Mandawa Havelis and their Frescoes:-

Traders and wealthy merchants mostly used to live away from their families who were settled in the Shekhawati Region. To compensate for their long absence and to show off how wealthy they were they used to send back home a bulk of their earnings for building Havelis, baolis etc. There was a completion between the traders and merchants to build magnificently decorated Havelis, better than the others in vicinity.

The artisans, mostly from the Kumhars (potter) community also known as chajeras, were brought in to the Shekahwati region from Jaipur and other far flung areas. Soon they mingled up with local workers to come up with frescoes and other art and craft work, which are deemed as masterpieces of art and culture. These treasures of art have given Mandawa the adjective of “Open Air Art Gallery”.

Initially natural colors were used; later dyes were imported and used for making frescoes.
Early paintings had Mughal influence and were rich in showcasing floral and other geometrical patterns.
Later paintings leaned toward Rajput influence showcasing Hindu God, Goddesses, Deities, Mythological Events & Characters, Maharajas, King, Queens Queens, Nawabs, Courtiers, Wars and Warriors, Elephants, Horses, Camels, Various Festival, Depiction of Village Life and day to day life events etc. 

Even later Frescoes saw European influence showcased various technological advancements say in the field of Transportation e.g. Cars, Trains etc or other advancements e.g. Phone etc. Famous European places &their attractions, English men, Women and English Rulers can also be seen in the Frescoes.
They also showcase Freedom Fighters and Freedom struggle.

Read more about Architecture and Layout of Havelis along with the description of Art & Craft work in Mandawa Havelis here.

Famous Havelis of Mandawa:-

Jhunjhunwala Haveli:-

Jhunjhunwala Haveli dates back to 1859 and is best known for its ‘Golden Room’. This room is the Baithak of the Haveli, located on the right of the main courtyard, having intricate paintings made of Gold Leaves (hence the name Golden Room).  One is just left spellbound with the creativity of the Rajasthani artisans who made these paintings. It is one of its kinds in Mandawa.

Jhunjhunwala Haveli

                                                                       

Murmuria Haveli:-

Murmuria Haveli was built in 1930s. The beautiful frescoes include images of Jawaharlal Nehru Ji carrying the India Flag on a horseback, George V, Ram Darbar, English men, Napolean,  Lord Krishna, Shivaji, Rishi Asram etc. Above the arches you can see Scenery from Venice where you see Gandolas in the canals of Venice. Also you can see from here on the wall of the adjacent double Haveli, a long fresco depicting a train with a crow flying over its Engine and can also see a Railway Crossing fresco.

Murmuria Haveli

Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka Haveli:-

On the external wall near the entrance you would find a composite image showing either Indra on an Elephant or Lord Shiva on Nandi (in the same image) depending on which way you look at it. This image is one of its kinds in Mandawa and is quite famous.

On the ground floor of the Chowk you would find frescoes of God Goddesses, A British Lady, Lord Krishna Playing Holi, Rajput warrior etc. On the first floor you can see frescoes depicting how a Haveli was built, painting of Laila Majnu, Bride in a Doli, Radha Krishna etc.

Seth Dayaram Dedraj Goenka Haveli

Bansidhar Nevatia Haveli:- 

The Haveli was built way back in 1921. Some of the paintings on the external wall include the Wright Brother’s maiden flight being watched by women in saris, a boy using a telephone, a person riding a cycle, a bird man flying in winged device, a car, a European woman in a chauffeur driven car, a strong man hauling a car etc.

Bansidhar Nevatia Haveli

Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli:-

On the entrance and the adjoining wall you can see frescoes based on various themes including God Goddesses, various mythological epic, Images of Maharajas, Kings, Queens etc. The Haveli has paintings of Elephants, Indra Dev on Elephant and Lord Shiva on his Nandi Bull.

Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli

Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli:- 

In this Haveli you would see murals of Elephants, Horses, mythological figures, Kings and Queens on the external wall. This Haveli also has a vibrantly painted Baithak having Images of various Kings, Rajas, Nawabs etc. Many Bollywood movies have been shot on this location. Including PK, Bajrangi Bhaijaan, Half Girlfriend etc.

Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli

Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli:- 

This Palatial Haveli has frescoes with a variety of themes including mirror images of a tiger and a horse, bird tending her eggs, a curly-headed Greek ‘portrait’; a woman giving birth etc. Some erotic murals on the walls showcase a couple making out in a train compartment and another on a chair. The attractions of the Haveli include its beautifully carved wooden gates and latticed windows.

Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli

Goenka Double Haveli:- 

Double Haveli was an architectural style where two identical Havelis were built adjacent to each other. These Havelis had common Outer Courtyard, but separate Baithaks & Inner Courtyards. The Goenka double haveli is a classic example of the double Haveli Architectural style. This Haveli has two wings the northern Tarkeshwar Goenka Haveli and the southern Vishwanath Goenka Haveli. On the front wall you can notice monumental pictures of Elephants and Horses. The overhanging balconies and upper stories are adorned with frescoes based on various themes including God Goddesses, various mythological epic, traditional Rajasthani women, Europeans wearing stylish hats etc.

Goenka Double Haveli

Mohan Lal Saraf Haveli:-

This Haveli is known for its Mirror and Mosaic work around the door and the inner courtyard. A famous painting from in the Haveli showcases a Maharaja/King stroking his bushy mustache. The frescoes include murals of Surya (the Sun God), Elephants etc.

Ram Pratap Nemani Haveli:-

This over a decade old Haveli has recently been converted to a Heritage Hotel (Vivaana Culture Hotel). The exterior and interior boasts frescoes and rare artifacts dating back to the 18^th century, which have been painstakingly, restored keeping the old world charm intact.

Lakshminarayan Ladia Haveli:-

This Haveli depicts various scenes from the Epic Ramayana including pictures where Lord Rama is slaying Demon King of Sri Lanka Ravana. Murals include a picture of a man enjoying hookah and a procession. Latticed windows also showcase excellent craftsmanship.

Chokahani Double Haveli:-

This Haveli build in 1910, was named so as it was had two wings for families of two brothers. The Haveli has murals depicting legends of Lord Krishna, some British soldiers etc. Pictures of Peacocks and floral patterns can be found above the beautiful archways.

Sewaram Saraf Haveli:-

This Haveli is more that 100  years old. It is known for its architecture and painting. Many popular Bollywood movies like PK, Bajrangi Bhaijan, Mirza Sahibaan etc have been shot here.

Aakharam ka Haveli:-

This Haveli is more that 100 years old and is located near the Sonthaliya Darwaza in the main market of the town.

Read more about Architecture and Layout of Havelis along with the description of Art & Craft work in Mandawa Havelis here.

       + Disclaimer: Information provided above is based on self experience and collected from various other sources.

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